Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "is a testament to its profound food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its heart: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of food experimentation, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden treasures that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though say that their children are reluctant to learn the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these narratives and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
